Introduction: Spearhead-shaped Bots: Inchworm

If you can count connected exclusively one thing, it would be a rule. Straightaway, wear't get me amiss. I am non talking some supreme despots for life, or anything of that sort. The rulers that I am referring to are the measuring kind. After all, how posterior you not numeration along something with then more sequential numbers pool? That is why, when it came to deciding what the armature for Inchworm Bot should be, the only thing I could think of was my trade good, dependable friend, the ruler. After all, in the thousand scheme of things, at that place is merely inches of similarity betwixt the two.

Step 1: Go Get Stuff

You testament need:

(x1) Continuous rotation servo modified for direct drive**
(x1) 4 x AA battery holder
(x1) DPDT prize switch
(x4) AA batteries
(x1) red and black wire
(x1) electrical tape recording
(x1) 18" atomic number 13 ruler (or longer)
(x2) small plastic container
(x2) 2" fixed casters
(x1) Bic lash out pen
(x1) comb
(x10) small daft and bolts
(x4) gnomish washers
(x1) 2" - 3" metal standoff
(x4) hurry ties

**Learn how to modify a servo motor for direct drive at this page.

(Note that some of the links on this page are affiliate golf links. This does non change the price of any of the items for sale. However, I earn a small commission if you click on whatsoever of those golf links and buy anything. I reinvest this money into materials and tools for future projects. However, you are plain free to reservoir the items as you please.)

Ill-trea 2: Cut the Ruler

Use a hacksaw and cut the ruler into deuce 9" sections.

(The convenient thing most cutting a swayer is that it comes pre-measured.)

Step 3: Fold a Notch

On incomparable of your 9" sections, make 2 cuts 3/4 of the way through the ruler at 1/2" from the edge and 2-1/8" from the edge.

Place the ruler in a bench vice so that the tush of the cuts are level with the top of the vice.

Hammer the section between the two cuts dull such that it is made perpendicular.

This wish be your motor mount.

Whole step 4: Bore Holes

Set your servo motor into the slot you just cut and manipulation a pencil to mark where its mounting holes are.

Remove the motor and practise through your marks with an 1/8" drill fleck.

Mistreat 5: Drill More Holes

Drill a 1/4" muddle that is 1/2" from the border of the the cut ruler section. Repeat on both.

(Obviously, connected the piece that you bear already worked on, the hole has to be drilled happening the opposite side of the motor climb on)

Step 6: Even More Holes

Come off your servo horn from your motive (the gear-looking physical object).

Use your servo horn as a usher to some mark and drill 1/8" holes through with the segment of ruler that does not have the drive mount.

These holes should be trained roughly 1/2" in from the edge of the ruler.

IT is preferential if you at the same time drill the servo horn, as to ensure identical sized holes.

Step 7: A couple of In conclusion Holes.

Bore an 1/8" hole, centered upon the section of the ruler with the motive mount, that is 5" from the edge with the mount.

Drill a 3/16" hole upon the section with the servo hooter mount that is close to 5" from the edge with the servo horn mount and close to the edge of the rule. Drill a second larger 1/4" hole that is 4" from the servosystem horn mount and centered upon the ruler.

Congratulations! You are finally finished modding the ruler.

Step 8: Mount the Motor

Mount your motor to the ruler, using nuts and bolts. Make a point that the drive climbing holes are on the same side of the ruler that the mounting bracket protrudes towards. The entirely mounting hardware that should be on the strange side of the ruler are the screw heads. This ensures a low profile when the two sections of ruler move back and forth.

Attach that servo motor's horn, if you have non done so already. Use nuts and bolts to attach the other section of the rule to the servo automobile horn. Again, the have it off heads should glucinium facing inward towards the other set to ensure a low visibility.

Step 9: Modify Your Comb out

Use inclined cutters to remove two inches worth of dentition from one side of your cockscomb. However, I plant it is healthful to leave a few teeth on right at the edge. Later on, these a couple of extra teeth will help act American Samoa a safe guard to keep the combing on track.

When you are cooked removing dentition, sand that subdivision of the comb smooth.

Lastly, drill an 1/8" hole on the opposite edge.

Step 10: Attach Your Ransack

Pass a screw through the hole you trained in the step prior.

Once it is passed done, place 2 - 4 washers on it. The point of these washers is to push the comb towards the other incision of ruler (in one case mounted).

Close, pass the screw through the eye gob, in the section of rule with the motor, from the inside impermissible. Use your bolt to firmly fasten it in situ.

Step 11: Conducting wire Up the Shift

Remove your switches' climb up freak and insert it into the 1/4" hole happening the servo horn section of ruler, Make certain to pass it through, so much that the switch lever is facing in. Lock it in place with its climbing nut.

Solder a reddish wire from the backside left corner pin to the top right. Solder a Black person wire from the freighter right, to the top left.

Spell you'Ra at it solder the red wire from your motorial to the immobilize on the merchant ship of the switch with the red wire and the black conducting wire from the motor to the pin happening the bottom with the grim wire.

Lastly, solder a long red telegraph to the eye pin along the side with the red motorial wire and a long black wire to the middle pin unofficially with the black motor wire.

If you are confused, just take the wiring diagram below.

Step 12: Standoff

Put on the draw to the servomechanism horn section of the swayer such that it is facing inwards in the equivalent way A the lever switch.

The coxcomb will rest atop the standoff.

Step 13: Spacers

Take your ballpen and remove the ink pickup such that you are left with a nonmeaningful tube.

With a razor blade, cut on the tube creating ii 1" sections.

Pick out the two sections and cut them in half, creating four 1/2" sections.

Measure 14: Remove the Wheels

Take your two casters and remove the wheels.

Set the wheels aside for some later project.

Stone's throw 15: Pivots

Rivet the caster frame atop your plastic container.

Utilize the holes in the caster as guides for drilling 1/8" holes in the lid of the container.

Zip tie the castor border place to create pivots.

Step 16: Power Boxful

On one of the plastic container lids, drill an 1/8" kettle of fish in the recess.

Home the battery holder inside and pass the office wires finished the hole.

(I eff that it shows batteries in the bearer, but I recommend not inserting batteries before you solder.)

Stone's throw 17: Put IT All Together

Using the castor mounting ironware and the pen spacers, attach the rulers to the plastic containers.

Basically, the ruler should have a pen spacer on each face to hold IT in place. If it seems loose or soaked, insert metal washers between the spacer and the ruler until it is non.

Whole step 18: Power Connections

Before you start, make certainly at to the lowest degree one bombardment is not in the electric battery holder or the motor wish turn along, making your job here very difficult.

Solder the red wire from the switch to the red-faced wire from the bombardment holder and cover information technology with electrical tapeline.

Solder the clothed wire from the switch to the blackness telegram from the battery bearer and cover it with tape A well.

Tread 19: How It Works

Basically, IT works past reversing the instruction of the motor for each one time the comb hits the switch, which, successively, forces its "feet" to slide backward and forward. Since one slope is weighted down with the batteries, it has more forward momentum in one particular direction.

So, As the motorial turns, the comb slides to one end and hits the switch. This then causes the coxcomb to slide back to the other stop, to make the switch again. Rinse. Repeat.

If you find that the causative does not reverse when the switch is pressed and the bot folds itself up into an ugly mess, first REMOVE THE BATTERY! One time you have cooked that, rotate the switch 180 degrees. Now put the battery back in. When the switch is ironed, information technology should reverse counsel.

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